Kilimanjaro gets 35,000 climbers a year.
This gets a few hundred.
Africa's third highest summit stands at 5,109 metres and carries glaciers almost on the equator. Ptolemy put these mountains on a map in the second century as the source of the Nile, and far fewer people climb them in a year than climb Kilimanjaro in a week.
The Rwenzori are not a volcano like Kilimanjaro or Kenya. They are a block of the earth's crust pushed up along the Albertine Rift, which is why they are jagged rather than conical, and why the weather sits on them the way it does.
You walk up through five distinct zones in a week: montane forest, then bamboo, then a heather zone where the trees are hung with moss, then the Afro-alpine bog where giant lobelia and groundsel grow three metres tall and nothing looks like anywhere else on earth, then rock and ice.
Be straight with yourself about the bog. The central circuit involves days of walking on tussocks over standing water, and it is the part people underestimate. It is also the part they remember. If seven to nine days is more than you want, the lower valleys give you the heather forest and the lobelia in two to four, and almost nobody does that either.
Journeys in Rwenzori Mountains
Typically 3 to 5 daysGorilla trekkingUganda Gorilla Trekkingfrom USD 3,450per personSee the itinerary
Typically 10 to 14 daysChimpanzee trekkingBest of Ugandafrom USD 3,950per personSee the itinerary
Typically 7 to 10 daysGorilla trekkingUganda Honeymoon Safarifrom USD 4,200per personSee the itinerary
Typically 8 to 12 daysWildlife safariUganda Family Safarifrom USD 3,600per personSee the itineraryThe places worth the drive
Margherita Peak
The summit, on the Stanley massif. The final section crosses glacier and needs rope, crampons and an ice axe.
Seven to nine days round trip. Technical, and genuinely a mountaineering objective rather than a hike.
The central circuit
Seven days through every vegetation zone the range has, with or without the summit attempt.
This is the walk the lobelia photographs come from.
The lower valleys
Into the heather and moss forest and back, sleeping at one or two huts.
No ice, no technical ground, and it still looks like nowhere else. The right answer for most people who want to see this range rather than summit it.
The year in Rwenzori Mountains
The long dry season
Firm trails, short grass and predictable roads. The busiest stretch of the year and the easiest walking.
Gorilla permits for these months sell out first, so they are booked before flights rather than after.
The short rains
Rain arrives in the afternoon and rarely lasts the day. Green country, few vehicles.
November carries the USD 600 gorilla permit. If your dates move, this is the best value in the calendar.
The second dry season
Hot and clear. Busy over Christmas and the new year, then quiet through January and February.
February is the driest month in the south and the strongest window for the Rwenzori.
The long rains
The wettest stretch. Harder underfoot, some northern tracks go difficult, a few lodges close.
April and May carry the USD 600 permit, birding peaks, and you will have the forest very nearly to yourself.
What we tell everyone about the Rwenzori
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