Queen Elizabeth National Park
Savanna between two lakes, with lions in the fig trees.
The boat is better than the game drive.
That is unusual, and it is true here.
Uganda's most visited park sits between Lake Edward and Lake George, with the Kazinga Channel running between them and carrying the densest concentration of hippo in the country. In the south, lions lie in fig trees, which they do almost nowhere else on earth.
The Kazinga Channel is 32 kilometres of water joining two lakes, and a two-hour boat along it puts you level with more hippo, buffalo and elephant than a morning in a vehicle usually will. The animals come to the water because they have to, so the boat does not depend on luck the way a drive does.
It is also one of the great bird stretches in Africa. The park records around 600 species, which is more than some countries, and a slow boat is the easiest way to see a serious number of them without being a birder.
The Ishasha sector in the far south is the other reason to come. Lions there rest in the branches of fig trees through the heat of the day. Nobody has fully settled why, and no sighting is promised, but it is an hour and a half on the road south toward Bwindi, which makes it an easy addition rather than a detour.
Journeys in Queen Elizabeth National Park
Typically 3 to 5 daysGorilla trekkingUganda Gorilla Trekkingfrom USD 3,450per personSee the itinerary
Typically 10 to 14 daysChimpanzee trekkingBest of Ugandafrom USD 3,950per personSee the itinerary
Typically 7 to 10 daysGorilla trekkingUganda Honeymoon Safarifrom USD 4,200per personSee the itinerary
Typically 8 to 12 daysWildlife safariUganda Family Safarifrom USD 3,600per personSee the itineraryThe places worth the drive
The Kazinga Channel
Hippo in hundreds, buffalo, elephant coming down to drink, and a wall of birds along the bank.
Afternoon is the right time. The light is behind you and the animals are at the water.
Ishasha
The southern sector, open and quiet, where lions lie in fig trees through the afternoon.
Never promised, often seen. It sits on the road to Bwindi, so it costs you very little to try.
The Kyambura Gorge
A forested gorge cut 100 metres into the savanna, holding a small isolated chimpanzee community.
Sightings are much less certain than Kibale. Go for the gorge itself and treat the chimps as a bonus.
The Mweya peninsula
The headland between the channel and Lake Edward, with the widest choice of lodges and the shortest run to the boat.
Warthogs on the lawns, mongoose everywhere.
The year in Queen Elizabeth National Park
The long dry season
Firm trails, short grass and predictable roads. The busiest stretch of the year and the easiest walking.
Gorilla permits for these months sell out first, so they are booked before flights rather than after.
The short rains
Rain arrives in the afternoon and rarely lasts the day. Green country, few vehicles.
November carries the USD 600 gorilla permit. If your dates move, this is the best value in the calendar.
The second dry season
Hot and clear. Busy over Christmas and the new year, then quiet through January and February.
February is the driest month in the south and the strongest window for the Rwenzori.
The long rains
The wettest stretch. Harder underfoot, some northern tracks go difficult, a few lodges close.
April and May carry the USD 600 permit, birding peaks, and you will have the forest very nearly to yourself.
What we tell everyone about Queen Elizabeth
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