Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Half the world's mountain gorillas, in forest older than the last ice age.
The forest is called impenetrable
because it is.
Bwindi holds roughly half of every mountain gorilla left alive, in 331 square kilometres of forest that has been standing for 25,000 years. A permit costs USD 800 against Rwanda's USD 1,500, for the same hour under the same rules.
Bwindi is not a park you drive through. It is a steep, wet, tangled montane rainforest that runs up and down ridges between 1,160 and 2,607 metres, and the only way through it is on foot behind someone with a machete. That is precisely why the gorillas are still here.
The trek is allocated on the morning, not chosen in advance. You are put with a group the rangers judge you can manage, you walk until the trackers radio in, and then you have exactly one hour at seven metres. It can take forty minutes to reach them or most of the day. Nobody can tell you which in advance, and anyone who does is guessing.
What you can decide is the month. In April, May and November the permit drops to USD 600, the forest is at its greenest, and there are far fewer people on the trails. The walking is harder underfoot. Most people who have done both say it was worth it.
Journeys in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Typically 3 to 5 daysGorilla trekkingUganda Gorilla Trekkingfrom USD 3,450per personSee the itinerary
Typically 10 to 14 daysChimpanzee trekkingBest of Ugandafrom USD 3,950per personSee the itinerary
Typically 7 to 10 daysGorilla trekkingUganda Honeymoon Safarifrom USD 4,200per personSee the itinerary
Typically 8 to 12 daysWildlife safariUganda Family Safarifrom USD 3,600per personSee the itineraryThe places worth the drive
Buhoma
The oldest and most developed sector, with the widest choice of lodges and the shortest transfers from the park headquarters.
Usually the gentlest walking of the four, though no sector guarantees an easy trek.
Ruhija
The highest sector at around 2,350 metres, and the coldest. Strong for birders: this is where the Albertine Rift endemics are easiest.
Fewer lodges, fewer people, longer drives.
Rushaga
The southern sector, with more habituated families than any other and the only place in Bwindi offering the four-hour gorilla habituation experience.
Closest to Kisoro and to the Rwanda border, so it is the natural choice on a trip flying into Kigali.
Nkuringo
Spectacular, high on the southern rim, with views across to the Virunga volcanoes.
The descent into the forest and the climb back out are the steepest in Bwindi. Worth it if you walk regularly, punishing if you do not.
The year in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
The long dry season
Firm trails, short grass and predictable roads. The busiest stretch of the year and the easiest walking.
Gorilla permits for these months sell out first, so they are booked before flights rather than after.
The short rains
Rain arrives in the afternoon and rarely lasts the day. Green country, few vehicles.
November carries the USD 600 gorilla permit. If your dates move, this is the best value in the calendar.
The second dry season
Hot and clear. Busy over Christmas and the new year, then quiet through January and February.
February is the driest month in the south and the strongest window for the Rwenzori.
The long rains
The wettest stretch. Harder underfoot, some northern tracks go difficult, a few lodges close.
April and May carry the USD 600 permit, birding peaks, and you will have the forest very nearly to yourself.
What we tell everyone about Bwindi
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